Pistoia
Rare visits
Although situated on a major route of communication, Pistoia received many fewer visits over the course of the 18th century than the other cities of Tuscany, despite its fame being guaranteed by a distinguished citizen, Pope Clement IX, a member of the Rospigliosi family.
Similarities with other cities
As at Pisa and Lucca, people were struck by the discrepancy between past and present. Pistoia had been “in other times, a rather fine republic,” but was now somewhat in decline, partly owing to the fact that it was “under populated.” Another thing it had in common with some of Tuscany's cities, and Florence in particular, was the admiration of its streets: broad, straight and well paved.
The points of interest
Visitors were most impressed by the imposing cathedral of Santa Maria. Eustace painted a concise but vivid picture of the city (1813), praising first of all the cathedral, with its fine dome, and then the church of the Umiltà and the seminary, buildings that, along with others, formed urban views of great elegance. As was customary among travelers, he draw attention to the breadth of the streets, which contributed to the healthiness of the houses. The only defect of the streets, squares, palace and churches was, according to Delpuech de Comeiras (1804), that of being excessively ornamented, with an exorbitant use of marble.
Eustace also found the surrounding landscape splendid, for the city was situated between the ample basin of the valley and the massive peaks of the Apennines.
Reference was also sometimes made to the skill shown by the Pistoians in the working of iron.